Wednesday, May 29 – Tuesday, June 4
Today’s post encompasses four more days of service, Shabbat in Jerusalem and our last two days in Tel Aviv.
Wednesday, May 29
We departed Tel Aviv for the day and were dropped off at IDF Base Tsrifim (Tzrifim), close to the city of Rishon Lizyon (south east of Tel Aviv). From our bus, we watched young IDF soldiers who had commuted by public bus, walk to their posts at the base. It was eye opening to see these young men and women, just out of high school, taking on such responsibility in wartime.
We were ushered into a large warehouse administered by retired IDF soldiers who volunteered their time to run this operation. Many were observant so we women were asked to dress modestly. There were many more volunteers than needed at the base but that didn’t make a difference. We would be packing four canned-food meals in each box. My morning assignment was on the assembly line, half a job, closing the boxes moving along the belt while the date was stamped by machine, on each box. Then my co-worker Judy made sure the box remained closed as it went through the tape machine (which simultaneously sealed both the box-top and bottom).
After we workers took our lunch break, we were back on the line. This time, I worked with a group of Israeli volunteers from Modi’in. These Orthodox women had family members serving in the IDF. They were so friendly in spite of our language barrier and appreciative of our being there. I mentioned that I had been to a Progressive synagogue in Modi’in (Yozma) but they had no idea what I was talking about. Progressive in Israel refers to Conservative, Reconstructionist and Reform worship, not familiar to these ladies.
In a day’s work we packed 4,200 boxes totaling 17,000 meals. In spite of my incredibly basic job, I felt part of a huge and successful operation and I met many special people along the way.
One of the many lovely things about Tel Aviv is its beachfront. Wednesday‘s dinner included a nice walk along the beach to Manta Ray, a delicious seafood restaurant with amazing salad tapas offerings. Somehow we made room for Golda’s ice cream on our walk back to the hotel.
Thursday, May 30
By now our group of 27 was quite comfortable meeting and greeting and preparing meals. On this day we worked for a super lady named Esther in whose Rishon Le Zion kitchen, we prepared hot meals that would be hand delivered for Holocaust survivors and people in need. The organization is called – “And You Loved your Neighbor as You Loved Yourself.” This was Israeli DOROT as it included not just the delivery of a hot meal, but also a friendly visit.
One of our volunteers, a semiretired gastroenterologist from Galveston, Texas, took it upon himself to wash all the dishes we used while preparing these meals. Marc was incredibly careful not to waste water, a precious resource in Israel.
After singing Marc’s praises, our guide Cat shared that Israel’s population might be nine million but she provides water to twelve million, including some of Egypt, Jordan and the Palestinian Territories. Kudos to Marc and to the technology that has enabled Israel to find ways to irrigate, desalinate and provide water to so many. Cat also shared that Israel has such a varied climate that everything can grow on its land; it just depends where you are and the season.
Before returning to our hotel, we stopped at “Hostages Square,” in front of the Tel Aviv Art Museum, to express solidarity with family members and support them. When hearing from a volunteer who represented families of hostages, I assured her that the hostages have not been forgotten in the U.S., that there have been weekly “Bring them Home” events and protests at the United Nations. When I think about international news, the anti-Israel and antisemitic sentiment and protests at academic institutions, I especially wanted to share the pro-Israel solidarity that is going on back home.
Thursday night our group had a briefing with Neil Lazarus, commentator and educator in the fields of Middle East politics and public diplomacy (https://www.awesomeseminars.com/)
Friday, May 31
When we registered for the Authentic Israel volunteer trip, I imagined harvesting cherry tomatoes on Israeli farms to help replace Palestinian workers who, prior to October 7, came across the border to work the fields. We had a variation on that theme on Friday when we picked eggplants from the vine in a greenhouse. Up and down the aisles we went, adding only the ripest and darkest eggplants to boxes.
It was fun but alas, we finished earlier than expected. Our guides came up with a superb last-minute stop at the MONY Estate Winery where we enjoyed a few snacks, sips of wine and stunning views of the Judean Hills and the Sorek Valley.
Our guides wanted us to enter Jerusalem, the holiest of holy cities, in a very specific way — Biblical, I would say, and we stopped just outside the City, to take photographs and share some challah and grape juice, setting the mood for Jerusalem and Shabbat. It was absolutely lovely.
We checked into our hotel and, for the first time all week, planned a little siesta, followed by a visit to Ben Yehuda Street before rejoining the group for a walk to the Old City. The corridor of our hotel floor was a playroom for children with blankets on the floor, strollers and toys and moms with babies in their arms nearby. These large, mostly ultra-Orthodox families had been relocated from their homes, which lacked the necessary safe rooms and were too close to the conflict both in the south and the north. Large families had been living in this hotel for eight months. I had to ask if these long term guests had any members involved with the war: the man at the front desk shook his head “no.” Military service is compulsory in Israel, but unfortunately, the government has not been able to agree on a policy to bring the ultra-Orthodox into the army.
Just before sunset, our group walked to the Old City of Jerusalem and enjoyed this sacred part of the week. We had just enough time to write notes to stick in the Western Wall; gentlemen went left and ladies went right. Then our group gathered to sing some Shabbat songs while people of all ages continued to arrive on the plaza overlooking the Wall to greet the Sabbath. It was excellent people-watching – but no photos after sunset!
Saturday, June 1
While the streets of Jerusalem on Shabbat morning are peaceful, inside the hotel, there were crowds of worshippers in the meeting rooms that currently act as synagogues. Andy and I skipped the hotel’s community breakfast and walked to the Israel Museum through Rehavia Park. We were incredibly lucky to arrive just in time for a great English-speaking archaeological tour.
I did not think it strange that there was contemporary art in this museum. Israel is known for its creative energy; however, I thought it interesting that there was a European collection that included some portraiture and Impressionism. I was interested in the provenance of this collection. How had these works of art arrived at the museum and who donated them?
On the grounds of the Museum is a replica of the Old City of Jerusalem during the time of the Second Temple. That was cool.
We met our group for an afternoon walk and ended up at the old train station, now a destination of shops and restaurants, including Adom, where we would be dining that evening (thank you Fred Z.).
We also visited the old Rehavia windmill with a plaza dedicated to the memory of Moses Montefiore. I remembered this spot from our temple trip fourteen years ago.
It was such a nice evening and Jerusalem came alive at the close of Shabbat as shops reopened and Ben Yehuda Street fills with people. I can only imagine how much busier this city would be if Israel were not at war.
We returned to the hotel but were sidelined by the weekly Saturday night protest of hundreds of people. Its destination, Prime Minister Netanyahu’s residence (which happened to be right around the corner from our hotel).
Sunday, June 2
After breakfast, we walked to our last volunteer project at “Our People.” Co-founder/Executive Director Leah Aharoni shared information about this organization’s mission to help Jews from former Soviet countries to immigrate and adjust to life in Israel. Since October 7, the organization has pivoted to provide assistance: medical equipment for IDF and civilian hospitals, assisting families hosting families evacuated from the war zone, and addressing emergency needs of civilians affected areas. Things as simple as sending extra washing machines to hotels that have been housing families for months is just one of Our People’s initiatives. Our project was to write personal messages (about twenty each) which we then packed into Shavuot care packages for 350 soldiers. We were also asked for donations that would send children who have been displaced from their homes to camp for summer. We know how beneficial camp is for all kids and these kids will really benefit from the joy of camp. https://ourpeople.org.il/wareffort
https://www.charidy.com/HelpToHeal
I am still enjoying the rugelach from our afternoon at the Mahane Yehuda, Jerusalem’s open air market. We were given tickets to use at a few of the establishments and in addition to the aforementioned baked goods, we enjoyed coffee, falafel, nuts, juice, Georgian cheese bread and sorbet. Shalom Jerusalem.
On our way out of town, we went to Ammunition Hill, a former Jordanian military base, trenches and all. Israel’s victory in the Six Day War, unifying Jerusalem is commemorated here and this week, a ceremony is planned on Jerusalem Day at Ammunition Hill to mark 57 years since the reunification of Jerusalem, June 5.
Our final activity as a group was at the Neot Kedumim, a nature preserve where we planted a sapling. After a lovely guided walk on the preserve’s grounds we had our last supper with as a group. We had a Kumbaya moment of sharing and gratitude for the people we now call friends, our guides, Barak and Cat, and our bus driver, Assad. It was an unforgettable week and I just hope we made a difference.
Monday, June 3
As soon as our Israel dates were set, I asked Debbie to reserve as much of Monday as she could. We met at the Palmach Museum which honors and commemorates this elite combined strike forces of the Haganah (men and women). The Palmach was established during the British Mandate. The British wanted trained forces just in case Hitler’s army got past North Africa. Thankfully, the Palmach was not needed for fighting Nazis but these well trained units continued to train and fight for Israel until the 1950’s. They also worked to get Jewish WWII refugees into Palestine during the time when the British were turning many ships away.
Debbie recommended dinner at the Whiskey Bar and Museum, a restaurant in an old neighborhood called Sarona. Andy could not refuse a flight of Israeli whiskey (when in Rome) and a good steak. Yes, a kosher (meat) establishment dedicated to Whiskey, more than 1,000 varieties from around the world. The restaurant is in a 19th century wine cave and became covert offices for the Mossad.
Tuesday, June 4
Our last day in Tel Aviv was great. Andy and I registered for MetroFun, the equivalent of CitiBike and cycled towards the Suzanne Dellal dance complex. This is where our friends and my yoga teacher Iris and Mark live part-time and how fortunate it was to be in the same place at the same time! Iris has been singing the praises of a movement class called Gaga for years and I was able to join her for a class. It was a lot of fun and very freeing — perpetual motion for an hour. The class started out with a somber acknowledgment of the latest newfound casualties of October 7. My friend Debbie said it right when she wrote “It’s sad that this entire country is suffering from PTSD, but the P isn’t “Post”, it’s “Present.” I think Gaga must be very helpful for the stress of these times. Israelis are trying to lead their lives but so much is missing: people, a prospect for peace, tourists — we have been thanked on a number of occasions for just showing up.
While we danced, the men biked and then we met for a nice brunch.
Those of you who know me know that I will try to squeeze in as much as possible so we added one more museum (!) to our day with a visit to ANU, the Museum of the Jewish People, on the campus of Tel Aviv University. We didn’t have a lot of time there but enjoyed the museum’s experiential installations about Jewish contributions through history. I add to this my amazement and pride at the continued resilience of the Jewish people who, with a worldwide population estimated at 15.7 million (which is approximately 0.2%), over generations of being scattered throughout the world, continue to persevere. There is no greater example of that than in Israel.
Am Yisrael Chai 💙🇮🇱💙
The Innocents Abroad, 21st Century Version 