When one has no permanent address and is living in short-term rentals, one does not need a lot. In fact, most of my things are in storage and most of what I brought to Paris was basic. Of course I did arrive with a short list of things that I hoped to buy and, not a surprise, I have been successful.* I have therefore, become an excellent window shopper and observer. Since I am limited space wise, I was careful not to over-exceed (we’ll see if the airlines agree when my luggage gets weighed upon departure).
I started taking notes on window displays in October. By November, store windows displayed many, many coats. Fashion note: if you ever need a coat, come to Paris in November. Whereas the store windows during early fall were promoting a variety of options, including multi-strap Mary Janes and sneakers galore, as of November 1, the stores promoted coats and boots. While black is always acceptable in Paris, showing up in most shop windows mid-November, most windows began the month neutral: oatmeal and camel coats on display. They are not “coat department-looking basics,” but uniquely styled (making one think she needs a new coat, even if she doesn’t). Coats are all lengths, the short down jackets are pretty boxy and the wool coats are long again. There are also multi-textured coats, which we saw last year.
Still in shop windows and what one can expect to see across the Atlantic soon (if not already): Mary Jane’s with single, double or triple straps. Like everything else, these, and even boots, have become quite sequined for the holidays.
Sneakers (but the French got that from us), not for sport but for style.
November colors: oatmeal and camel — neutrals.
December windows: black and since Christmas, winter white in its place.
And how are people dressed? Very casually. We went to a 3-Star Michelin restaurant for a very special lunch and fellow diners were in jeans, sneakers and even hoodies. I was surprised at the level of casual, as the restaurant was white table cloth, they changed out the silverware completely for each of the nine courses and everyone on the restaurant’s staff was in a suit.
When walking about – and I walk about a lot – I see most people layered with down jackets or simple long belted wool wrap coats, always wrapped in a scarf (that included September when we were still enjoying summer-like weather) and stylish sneakers.
That said, once December rolled around, this window shopper noticed lots of sparkle and shine at retail. The most glitter I have seen on the street are sequin fanny packs, even during daytime.
The above photos are my segue into my handbag observations.
The everyday sac, purse, handbag, with which I arrived to Paris, was a $40 UNIQLO bucket bag. It has served me well and bucket bags are in all the shops: gorgeous leather, suede and velvet BUT, I wanted a souvenir and scouted the stores, windows and Parisians to educate myself.
Below you can see what stylish Parisians are carrying, prices ranging from €225 all the way up to €4,400! Here are some examples, from low to high. Of course, these bags come in black plus an array of other colors (the pink one is for Tris).
So perhaps you are wondering which one I chose? I decided to be different and go for a bag that is not easily available in the US.
And, because my evening bags are packed away and impossible to locate in our floor-to-ceiling storage bin, and because I need one for a few occasions, Andy scouted this for me while we were in Lyon, and their Paris store is right around the corner (one pochette; two different sides)!
I have thoroughly enjoyed updating my most basic wardrobe with accessories and while I had bags on my Paris wish list, you might note that I have not mentioned scarves. Yes, they are everywhere and on everyone and I brought a small selection of scarves to Paris, wearing one everyday. As much as I love scarves, the way they can complete an outfit, add a burst of color to a neutral story, I just own too many and vowed not to add to my collection. But I highly recommend saving one’s scarf-shopping for Paris. At the outdoor markets, there are beautiful prints and colors in every weight from Kashmir and in the boutiques, they are among the best souvenirs and they pack so easily.
ANOTHER SEGUE, ANOTHER ACCESSORY: A Cap makes History
Today, while at the neighborhood post office, I noticed a Paris 2024 Olympic display and I just could not figure out the logo. So I searched Paris Olympic logo and got this:
But that’s not what I saw at the post office. I saw this (below) and I wondered what a red bird had to do with Paris or Olympics:
So, I looked up Paris Olympic Mascot and here’s the connection to the accessory known as a cap. The mascots above are Phryges which are the red liberty caps that were symbols of freedom and revolution, going back to the French Revolution (actually, back to Roman times — keep reading). When I looked into this, I found an article in the New York Times about the Paris Olympics and les Phryges accompanied by a photo of Delacroix’s “Liberty Leading the People.” Note Liberty’s red Phrygian cap!
Later today, yes, the same day, Andy and I returned to the Musée Carnavalet which is the Museum of the History of Paris. On our first visit, we barely made it to the French Revolution and we wanted to get back to that and the renovation of Paris, commissioned by Napoleon III, overseen by Haussmann during the Second Empire.
The allegory painting depicts long poles with sharp blades, that were used by the sans-culottes during the French Revolution and Reign of Terror. At one point, Paris’s Mayor Pétion issued an order to regulate the making of these pikes. If one looks at the painting, covering the blade is a Phrygian cap. At Carnavalet, we learned that the red Phrygian cap, worn by the revolutionaries was in reference to the pileus worn by emancipated Roman slaves.
Now readers, you will know what the Olympic commentators are talking about this summer, when they have to explain Phryges to a worldwide audience. And they are not red birds!
Many more Paris topics and experiences are forthcoming but before I post again, I extend my best wishes for a New Year’s celebration however you like to celebrate and a Happy and Healthy 2024. And by the way, here’s a difference in culture to share. The French do not start wishing people “Merry Christmas” until December 22 and they don’t wish people “Happy New Year” until after New Years. Being provincial Americans, we have wondered why our holiday wishes were greeted with blank stares. Now we know!
Wouldn’t it be nice if the problems of the world are resolved and that peace and understanding are achieved? Now that’s a New Year’s resolution.
À bientôt❣️
*White cotton blouse, novelty blouse (to wear at Thanksgiving), lightweight down jacket, rain hat, wool hat, chain for reading glasses, black tie dress, two sweaters, skincare from CityPharma, and of course, two handbags (everyday and evening).
The Innocents Abroad, 21st Century Version 