Finishing Week Four of Our Journey
16 Octobre 2023
If you know me well, you know I am rarely at a loss for words but the weekend in Normandy, which was focused on the history of D-Day, at the same time war and acts of terror are happening in Israel, was a lot to process. While I love history, I have never focused on the details of war that were revealed to us at Normandy. Andy and I had done our homework: we watched The Longest Day (1962), about the D-Day landings at Normandy on June 6, 1944, immersing ourselves in WWII history. We were ready!
Just a brief chat about the days leading up to our Normandy weekend. Jennifer and Scott (Jen is my best friend since childhood) came to visit us in Paris and we had two nice days before our excursion to Normandy. That included some lovely meals such as crêpes, a lot of walking (and shopping) and a visit to both the Luxembourg Gardens and the Musée du Luxembourg , where we viewed “Gertrude Stein et Pablo Picasso: L’invention du langage” exhibit. Not only was it fabulous, but it is right down the block from our apartment. Of course, there were many Picasso paintings to see as well as quotes from Gertrude Stein (most of which went over my head). This group of artist and intellectuals influenced artists like Merce Cunningham, John Cage, and Andy Warhol.
Many of you have asked how it feels to be in France right now. As you may know, I attended an Israel solidarity event a week ago. On Thursday, there was an anti-Israel protest in Paris. President Emmanuel Macron has since asked France to “remain united” despite the tensions that could arise from this conflict. “We share Israel’s grief,” said Macron, recalling the atrocities committed against Israel: “Hundreds of infants, children, women and men hunted down, kidnapped, murdered, taken hostage.” He added “Let’s say it clearly. Hamas is a terrorist movement.” And “Acting as it does, Hamas knows what it is criminally and cynically exposing the people of Gaza to. This is not a war between Israelis and Palestinians. It is a war waged by terrorists against a nation, a country, a society, democratic values.” Macron also stated “Those who confuse the Palestinian cause with the justification of terrorism commit a triple error: moral, political and strategic.” For those of you who are interested, this article explains the issues facing France with respect to the situation in Gaza and Israel: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2023-10-16/france-on-edge-as-israel-hamas-war-opens-old-scars-with-jews-and-muslims?
En route to our weekend rental car, we walked out of our apartment to a long line of police cars. They were lined up, just in case. This worried us, and we actually walked right into a protest, but this scheduled event had been arranged by the inter-union, demanding an increase in salaries and continuing the fight against austerity. Whew!
Our Friday rush hour drive to Normandy was uneventful and easy once we got out of Paris (just like home). We stopped in the town of Bayeux for dinner before checking into the beautiful Château de Sully, where we stayed and on Saturday, enjoyed a gourmet dinner.
Saturday morning was our D-Day. Our guide, Dr. Stéphane Lamache, lives the history of June 1944 with his continued research as a “Normandy Battle Historian.” In fact, after our day with him, Stéphane shared over 100 photos with us, documenting D-Day, its aftermath and his current work to identify MIA remains — 79 years after D-Day.
We began the day at the Normandy American Cemetery, more than 170 acres, overlooking Omaha Beach. We heard about the history of the cemetery and stories about some of soldiers. As the morning went on, we experienced more locations (Utah Beach, Sainte-Mère-Église) where this huge military battle took place. Ultimately, the Allied soldiers from the US and UK captured the port at Cherbourg thereby, allowing Allied supplies to arrive from across the Channel and move east, liberating Paris on August 25. The soldiers were so young and they had been training for entry to this difficult landscape for months and so many lost their lives. It was amazing to see footage of General Eisenhower, greeting these young soldiers once he gave the go ahead for codename: “Operation Overlord” to proceed. The weather was horrible and some landings missed their targets but on June 6, 1944, 1,200 planes, 5,000 vessels and 160,000 troops (airborne, paratroopers, infantry and naval personnel) arrived in Normandy to end WWII in Europe.
Of course, we learned many more details than reported in the above paragraph. The takeaway for me was in the huge number lost. Yes, the Allies liberated Normandy but more than 18,000 French civilians were killed during the fighting, their homes destroyed. Walking through, the now peaceful landscape of the National Cemetery, one sees the many crosses and star of Davids at the cemetery, 9,388 in all, plus 1,557 names engraved on the Wall of the Missing. The experience reminded me that all who fought to defend our way of life should be honored as the “Greatest Generation.” June 6, 2024, will be the 80th anniversary of D-Day and I will surely be thinking of the young soldiers who fought for the freedom we enjoy.
Our Sunday in Normandy was a bit lighter. We walked around Bayeux and saw the famous Cathedral, dating back to 1077 as well as the Bayeux Tapestry (really an 11th century embroidery), depicting the story of Harold II who “stole” England’s throne from William, Duke of Normandy. Remember the Norman Conquest (1066)? Throughout history, this “tapestry” was displayed every year in Bayeux’s cathedral to tell the story to the community. It was really a fabulous piece of history, believed to be more than 950 years old.
The bonus, en route back to Paris, was s stop in the City of Rouen (which I have been pronouncing incorrectly), home to a gorgeous gothic cathedral that Monet painted in all kinds of light and Rouen’s annual Belly Festival. No, there were no funnel cakes but local producers were selling fruits, vegetables, cheeses, chocolates, cider and calvados.
We made it back to Paris for a superb evening of duck dining at La Grange aux Canards, a must for our visiting guests.
Oddly, our trip to Normandy helped me to understand the conditions and risks those who serve take in battle. I am a beneficiary of their sacrifice. It is hard not to be completely absorbed by the news, the footage and the opinion pieces addressing war in Israel and terrorism. Praying for peace.
Shalom,
Joanie
The Innocents Abroad, 21st Century Version 